African Fat-Tail Gecko Care Guide
Thinking about welcoming an African fat-tailed gecko into your home? These charming lizards, known for their adorably plump tails and inquisitive gazes, can make fantastic reptile pets. This guide provides all the essential information you need to set up your new buddy for a happy and healthy life.
Often called AFTs for short, the African fat-tails closely resemble leopard geckos but are not the same species. Though members of the same gecko family as leos, AFTs are from a different habitat and different part of the world (subtropical Africa vs. the arid Middle East). This makes their care requirements slightly different, and they are not as commonly sold in pet stores as their familiar leo cousins.
Fast Facts
- Scientific name: Hemitheconyx caudicinctus
- Native range: West Africa, Senegal to northern Cameroon
- Natural habitat: Subtropical forests and savannah
- Adult size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
- Tank size: 10 gallons or larger
- Lifespan: 10-20 years
- Difficulty: Beginner-Intermediate
Source: Hemitheconyx caudicinctus, Animal Diversity Web.
African Fat-Tail Geckos in the Wild
African fat-tails, as their name implies, are from the continent of Africa. More specifically from the western portion of the continent from Senegal south to northern Cameroon. Their habitat includes both woodlands and grasslands, in areas ranging from near desert to almost tropical in humidity. They prefer rocky habitats where they can move between a variety of hiding places to regulate their body temperature and search for prey. They don’t dig their own burrows but will readily occupy abandoned holes for their own den space. In the wild, when they venture to the surface it is usually at night.
AFT Gecko Captive Care
While they don’t enjoy the same level of popularity as their more striking cousin, the leopard gecko, African fat-tails can make wonderful pets for both new and experienced reptile keepers. Their care requirements are relatively basic, though they can be more picky in some regards than the beginner-friendly leopard gecko.
Housing Requirements
It’s possible to keep a single fat-tail in a 10 gallon tank, though it can be difficult to get the correct temperature ranges in this small of a tank. A 20 gallon long aquarium may prove easier and can house a pair. A trio or even a quartet may be housed comfortably in a 40 gallon breeder. AFTs can be kept in quintets, but the tank they would need is often prohibitively large, needing at least 2 square feet more than the 40 breeder. Never under any circumstance, should you house two males together. Fighting is a guarantee if you do, with one or both of them risking serious injury and even death. A tight fitting screen lid is recommended to prevent escapes (though generally they don’t climb) and injuries from other household pets.
Temperature and Lighting
It’s been debated as to whether nocturnal geckos, like the African fat-tail, need a UVB light, however, with an animal that lives 15+ years, it is usually better to be safe than sorry. UVB is beneficial for supporting immune health and metabolism in all reptiles.
Either a heat lamp or an under tank heater is a necessity in order to provide a gradient heat range for these ectothermic animals. The heated side of the tank needs to be around 85-95 degrees with an ambient air temperature of around 80 degrees, though it can go as low as 70 degrees without causing issues.
Substrate
For substrate you can use ground coconut husk products like Bed-a-beast, ground walnut shells, aspen, reptile bark, clay, cypress mulch or a combination of any of these. You can also keep them on calcium sand, play sand, newspaper, reptile carpet, or paper towels — the geckos are not picky so it really comes down to your personal preference.
As is the case with leopard geckos, you may hear about risk of gut impaction from sand as a substrate. Opinions on this are mixed. Some people say sand is perfectly fine as long as you feed them properly and keep conditions optimal. Others swear that sand should never be used. If you are concerned about compaction risk than it’s easy to just steer clear of sand in favor of a different substrate.
Humidity and Hiding Places
African fat-tail geckos need a slightly humid environment in order to thrive, and this is the major difference in their care when compared to leopard geckos. Therefore you should lightly mist the cage each morning, and perhaps more often if you live in a dry climate.
You should also provide at least two hides or caves in the enclosure, one at the cool end of the tank, and one at the heated end. One of the hides should have damp moss in it to provide a shedding spot that stays above 60% humidity. You should also keep a shallow water dish filled and clean at all times.
Feeding African Fat-Tail Geckos
AFTs are insectivores, meaning their primary source of nutrition comes from insects. These insects should be sized appropriately to your gecko. They should be no longer than your gecko’s head is wide to prevent choking and impaction. Crickets, roaches, mealworms, and/or pheonix worms should be used as the primary food source with waxworms, hornworms, silkworms, and other feeder insects used as occasional treats. For adult geckos that need to bulk up or for breeding females, pinky mice can be fed for extra protein and fat. Any insects fed to your fat-tail should be dusted with calcium at every feeding when they are growing and tapering off to once a week when they are adults. It’s also a good idea to keep a small dish of vitamin powder in the gecko’s cage. Most will occasionally lick at this powder, and they seem to enjoy the taste.
Some keepers prefer to feed their AFTs in a separate enclosure from their main cage, and this strategy can provide several benefits. First, it keeps your gecko from swallowing any of its substrate, preventing the chance of impaction, or blockage of the intestines. Second, it makes cleanup easier. And third, uneaten prey will not be free to roam the enclosure and chew on your gecko’s toes or skin. This is a real risk that you have to watch for, especially with crickets and beetles. Some geckos may prove too shy for this way of feeding, however, and it may be necessary to feed in the main enclosure. Just make sure to remove uneaten prey after feeding.
How To Hold Your African Fat-Tail Gecko
African fat-tail geckos are naturally very shy and reclusive, but can become accustomed to handling over time. Begin by simply reaching in your hand and perhaps lightly touching your gecko each day. After a few days, you can try holding them inside the enclosure. When the gecko becomes comfortable resting in your hand, you can remove them and handle outside the cage, but keep them very close to the ground at first in case they try to jump.
Always handle your gecko gently and avoid grasping the tail. Like many other lizards, AFT gecko tails can break off easily as a defense mechanism. Although these geckos are capable of regrowing a broken tail, losing any body part is stressful and unhealthy for the animal so should be avoided at all costs. As an additional note, remember that AFTs are nocturnal, so their natural resting time is during the day. They may become stressed with too much daytime interaction, so try to feed and handle them in the morning or evening instead. This is especially important during the first few months when they are still settling in and becoming used to you.
African Fat-Tail Gecko Health Concerns
Although AFTs are sturdy animals, as with any animal there are certain health concerns you can watch for and prevent. Here is an overview of common conditions, their symptoms, and typical treatments that you can deliver yourself.
Upper Respiratory Infections (URI)
A respiratory infection can be caused by stress due to low temperatures, too much humidity, or other environmental factors. Symptoms include discharge at the nose, mouth, or eyes along with trouble breathing and general lethargy. To treat it, try increasing the temperature, checking the humidity to make sure it isn’t too low or too high, and seeing a veterinarian as soon as possible for antibiotics.
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)
Lack of vitamin D3 is usually caused by insufficient UVB light. Although uncommon in AFTs, it is not unheard of. Symptoms include bowed legs, weakness, swelling at joints and jaw, tremors, jerky movements, constipation, lethargy. It can be treated with high doses of calcium and vitamin D3 supplements, balanced diet (high calcium, low phosphorus), proper temperatures and lighting. In moderate and severe cases veterinary assistance is necessary.
Bad Sheds
Low humidity can cause your gecko to have an incomplete shed, where dead skin is left hanging on for some time. Usually the feet are where this problem occurs. In the worst cases, retained sheds can cut off circulation causing tissue death in the affected area. To treat this, soak your gecko in shallow warm water for 5-10 minutes. Gently peel the dead skin off. If necrotic tissue is present, see a reptile veterinarian.
Internal Parasites
African fat-tails have a lower resistance to internal parasites than Leopard Geckos do. Captive bred animals can get these from feeder insects, though this is rare. A gecko in a pet store could be wild caught and carry parasites with them. Symptoms of parasites may be increased appetite coupled with weight loss and lethargy. A veterinarian can do a fecal exam if you suspect parasites and provide you with de-parasitizing treatments.