How To Care For Milk Snakes
Lampropeltis triangulum sinaloae is a type of milk snake that is particularly well known for its striking tricolor pattern. The colors are precise, and the 10 to 17 red bands are very wide and bright. The black bands are often slightly wider than the white rings they edge.The head and snout are primarily black.
They aren’t just pretty to look at; these snakes are also favored for their relatively small size, docile temperament, and simple care requirements. If you can find a captive-bred Sinaloan milk snake for sale within your budget, you should strongly consider bringing one of these beautiful snakes home. Read up on their care instructions here so that you’ll be prepared to provide the best possible home.
Fast Facts
- Scientific name: Lampropeltis triangulum sinaloae
- Native range: Northern Mexico states of Sonora, Sinaloa, and Chihuahua
- Natural habitat: Semi-desert forest and scrubland
- Adult size: 2-4 feet (61-122 cm)
- Tank size: 20-gallon long or larger
- Lifespan: 10-15 years in captivity
- Difficulty: Easy-Intermediate
Source: Lampropeltis triangulum, Animal Diversity Web
Fun Facts
- Milk snakes are well-known fakers. Their coloration closely resembles the venomous coral snake,. Their bright red bands with black and white borders act like a warning sign to predators, even though milk snakes themselves are harmless.
- The English name milk snake probably comes from a myth. Farmers often find these snakes in their barns among the cows, so the legend became that the snakes drink milk. In fact milk snakes probably like barns because mice like barns.
Sinaloan Milk Snakes in the Wild
The Sinaloan milksnake gets its name from the Mexican state of Sinaloa, where it’s a common resident. In the wild, these snakes are opportunistic eaters, consuming a variety of prey including small mammals, lizards, frogs, and even other snakes. Primarily nocturnal, these snakes spend their days hidden in burrows or under debris like logs, emerging at night to hunt, which also helps them avoid daytime predators.
Their bright coloration might seem conspicuous, but they can blend in surprisingly well with rocky environments. If they are spotted by a potential predator, their colors that mimic a venomous coral snake may help protect them. As a further defense mechanism, Sinaloan milksnakes can emit a foul-smelling musk to deter predators.
Source: Sinaloan Milk Snake, Animalia.bio
Caring for Sinaloan Milk Snakes in Captivity
Sinaloan milk snakes are relatively easy to care for, and are very docile once they become accustomed to their environment. Their care requirements are very similar to other arid-climate milk snakes and kingsnakes, so if you’ve successfully kept something like a Desert kingsnake or a California kingsnake at home, then you are already well prepared for a Sinaloan milk snake.
Tank Size
For an enclosure you should use at least a 20 gallon long aquarium for an adult, but bigger is better. Neonates (babies) can be housed in a 10 gallon enclosure, just be prepared to upgrade this as your snake grows. Do not house more than one milksnake together because they are known to eat other snakes.
You must also make sure your tank has a tight-fitting lid that locks. They are slender-bodied snakes but still surprisingly strong. They can fit through tiny cracks and also push up an unsecured lid to escape.
Cage Furniture
You need 1 or 2 hide boxes (one on each side of the enclosure is best) for your snake. These don’t have to be huge, and in fact a cave that is just big enough for your snake to tightly curl inside of will make him or her feel most comfortable. Having one cave on each side will also give your snake a better choice of lighting and temperature conditions
Though these snakes are primarily ground dwellers, they will climb and explore if given the opportunity. That’s why a sturdy piece of driftwood or stone feature is good to include. Any rough surfaces of wood or rock will also help your snake molt its skin by giving something to rub on.
Finally, your snake should have a drinking bowl with fresh, dechlorinated water at all times. They don’t need a dish big enough to soak in necessarily, but they might use it for soaking when it’s time to shed their skin.
Lighting
These are desert snakes that are used to high radiation in their natural environment, so it’s best to provide them with UVB for at least six hours per day. They do not need an extremely warm basking spot, however. That’s good news because you won’t have to maintain a high-powered bulb.
Temperature
Simply situate the lighting so that your snake has UVB light and a temperature of 82-88 degrees on the warm side of the enclosure. The cool side can be as low as 75 degrees. You should turn off all the lights at night so your snake has a natural photoperiod, and nighttime temperatures of 70 degrees or cooler are fine for these snakes.
You might choose to use an under tank heater instead of a heat bulb to keep the cage warm, especially if your house gets cold at night or in the winter. Just make sure you still have a bulb to provide UVB during the day.
Humidity
As for humidity, I recommend lightly misting the cage once per day or once every other day. Sinaloans are from semi-dry mountainous habitats, and in the wild they spend a lot of time burrowing in moist soils. This means they can benefit from low levels of humidity in their enclosure. More humidity–say misting twice per day–is beneficial when your snake is preparing to molt.
Best Substrates for Sinaloan Milk Snakes
A variety of bedding types are suitable for milk snakes. Good substrates include aspen shavings, coconut fiber, or arid terrarium soil. These snakes appreciate a bedding that they can burrow into, so providing two or more inches of loosely packed substrate is best.
Whatever material you use, just make sure it is good quality and not too dusty, as dust can cause respiratory problems when they burrow. You might consider sifting the substrate to remove some dust before adding it to the cage.
Can you keep Sinaloan Milk Snakes on Sand?
Sand can be a controversial topic for reptile keepers, but many people ask about sand for desert snakes because of its attractive and naturalistic look. It’s also very easy to keep clean. You will likely read differing opinions online, but I’m here to say that sand is okay for desert kingsnakes like Sinaloan milks, on two conditions:
First: As I said above, make sure you use high-quality sand that is not too dusty. Second: It’s best not to feed your snake on sand because ingesting too much of it can be harmful. But really this rule goes for any small-grain substrate, even fine wood shavings.
It’s best to move them off of any sand or fine wood shavings for feeding. This might mean feeding them in a separate enclosure or having one side of the tank with a more solid surface. Examples of good feeding area substrates include larger wood chips, solid stone, or gravel.
Feeding Sinaloan Milk Snakes
In captivity these snakes do well on a diet of mice. Feed your snake one mouse once per week generally, but if you have to miss a week sometimes it’s okay. Getting two meals in a three week periodis no problem for a full-grown adult. More regular feeding for a baby or juvenile is ideal.
Full-grown milksnakes can eat mice of any size, and one adult mouse per week is suitable. If you want to vary their diet, they may also eat rat pups or even feeder anoles. Babies should eat the smallest pinky mice, and juveniles should receive progressively larger mice as they grow. Aim for feeding a mouse that is approximately as wide in girth as your snake is at its thickest point.
Pre-killed (frozen and thawed) mice are the best choice. These snakes are not usually picky eaters, so they will readily accept pre-killed prey. Your snake will likely not want to eat when they are leading up to molting, however. They will also not eat if their enclosure gets too hot or too cold for an extended period of time.
Handling
Milk snakes are usually very docile and don’t mind being held. Exceptions may be baby snakes or any newly obtained individual. They might take some time to get used to you and to their environment, but will calm down with patience.
Start by approaching the snake slowly and allowing it to “sniff” your hand outstretched on the ground. If they seem curious and calm, you can gently scoop up from the mid-body, supporting their weight securely. Avoid grabbing them behind the head or by the tail. If the snake becomes defensive (hissing, musking, or striking), give them space and try again another time.
