Corn snake of orange and red coloration, crawling on a thin tree branch.

How To Care For a Corn Snake

Corn snakes are a popular choice among reptile enthusiasts, known for their docile nature and striking appearance. Wild specimens are often a bright orange with deep-red spots, and have a checkerboard of white and black on the belly. Captive-bred snakes can be even more colorful, and come in a variety of morphs.

Native to North America but becoming more popular as pets around the world, these peaceful constrictors are relatively simple to care for and make excellent pets for beginners or experienced snake keepers alike. As with any other snake, they require some specific care in order to thrive in captivity, but their needs are quite manageable for most owners to meet.

Fast Facts

Scientific name: Pantherophis guttatus
Native range: Eastern United States
Natural habitat: Woods, fields, and abandoned buildings
Adult size: 2.5-5 feet (0.75-1.5 meters)
Tank size: 40-gallon (36”x18”x18”) or larger
Lifespan: 15-25 years
Difficulty: Easy, beginner

Source: Pantherophis guttatus, Animal Diversity Web

Fun Facts

There is some debate about the origin of the common name “corn snake.” It may have come from their tendency to live among farmers’ corn, where they can easily feast on rodent pests. Alternatively, it may be a reference to their belly markings, which resemble checker-patterned kernels of Indian maize.

Corn Snakes in the Wild

In the wild, corn snakes are primarily active at night, or in the early and late hours of dawn and dusk. They primarily live in burrows, either digging their own or invading the tunnels of rodents, which are their primary food source. However, corn snakes are also able climbers and swimmers. They often venture out in search of frogs, lizards, or birds which they might also eat. Like many other nonvenomous snakes, corn snakes are constrictors that subdue their prey by grabbing and squeezing it.

Caring for Corn Snakes in Captivity

Corn snakes make wonderful pets because of their medium size, tolerance of handling, and relatively simple care requirements. They can live in a tank that comfortably fits on a large desk or dresser, and they don’t need particularly high light or humidity in order to thrive. That said, there are certain things you need to know in order to ensure the best possible care for your snake.

Bonus video from Elle’s Reptiles with top 10 tips for corn snake care.

Tank Size for Corn Snakes

Corn snakes are often sold as juveniles when they are less than 40 cm long. At this size they can comfortably live in a 10-gallon glass tank. As they grow into adulthood, however, you will need to provide a bigger enclosure, however. These are very active snakes who love to explore every inch of space that you can give them. A 40-gallon breeder (36 x 18 x 16 inches) is the minimum tank size that I recommend, but many corn snake enthusiasts say you should go even bigger, to 48″L x 24″W x 24″H or more. The choice you make must of course depend on your own space and budget limitations, but remember that bigger is better for these inquisitive snakes.

Here are some tanks good for corn snakes that you can order online:

Zoo Med double door glass terrarium, 36″X18″X18″
ReptiZoo 120-gallon glass terrarium with sliding front doors, 48″ x 24″ x 24″
ReptiZoo 120-gallon black-tinted terrarium with sliding front doors, 48″ x 24″ x 24″

Substrate

Best bedding for corn snakes:

ZooMed ReptiSoil
Zilla Jungle Mix
Coconut Fiber
Hemp bedding

Some keepers use simple bedding like paper towels, newspaper, or reptile carpet for corn snakes. While these work fine for a temporary enclosure, I don’t recommend them long-term because they don’t allow your snake to burrow, and they need to be replaced often in order to stay clean. A loose substrate, on the other hand, can easily be spot cleaned and infrequently needs to be replaced.

Worst bedding for corn snakes:

The following substrates are popularly sold in pet stores, and although they are suitable for some types of snakes, they should NOT be used for corn snakes.

ReptiBark: Bark may be fine as part of soil mix that allows burrowing, but ReptiBark on its own is not good for corn snakes because it does not let them dig easily.
Wood shavings: Any type of wood shavings like aspen, pine, or cedar are not great for corn snakes. Although they do allow for burrowing, wood shavings tend to mold easily with moisture. When dry they produce dust and volatile organic compounds that can lead to respiratory problems.
Gravel: Does not hold moisture well, and does not allow for safe burrowing.
Sand: A corn snake may be able to burrow in sand, but sand can be quite abrasive and may become inhaled or ingested, leading to health problems. Sand is acceptable when mixed into a soil blend, however. Many people use sand along with ReptiSoil, potting soil, or other material to make a naturalistic terrarium substrate.

Cage Furniture and Hiding Places

Unlike some other burrowing snakes, corn snakes love to climb and explore all dimensions of their enclosure. Because of that I recommend providing a sturdy branch or another kind of cage decor for climbing. This makes a more interesting environment for your snake to explore and for you to observe. Be sure that you also have a lid that latches closed. Even without a climbing branch, a full-grown snake can stretch up to reach the top of a tank and can easily push its way out if the lid isn’t secure.

In addition to a climbing structure, you should add at least one enclosed hiding place for your snake. Even though they like to burrow in the substrate, a corn snake will also appreciate a dark hidebox to curl up in. Decorative shelters like the Exo Terra Reptile Cave work great, but to save money you can simply use a plastic food container with an entry hole cut out. It’s best to provide not one but two hiding places, one on the warm side and one on the cool side of the enclosure.

Corn snake enclosure with naturalistic soil, climbing structures, and a basking spot. Photo by Paul Korecky.

Temperature and Lighting

Like other reptiles, corn snakes are cold blooded, meaning they rely solely on their surroundings for body heat. This is why the enclosure should have a heat source one one side and stay cooler on the other side, allowing your snake to choose one or the other in order to regulate its body temperature.

The warm side of the enclosure should be kept at 85-88F. The cool side of the enclosure should be 75-80F. Corn snakes don’t necessarily need a basking light, but I find that using a dome lamp with a daylight bulb is the easiest way to provide heat for corn snakes. A fluorescent daylight bulb of 40 watts or less should be enough to maintain temperatures on the warm side, and your snake will be just fine with the tank at normal room temperature overnight.

Other heating options include under-tank heaters, heat tape, and heat emitters. If you use any of these, make sure they work properly to provide enough heat without becoming too hot. Use a digital thermometer probe to regularly check the ambient temp, and if you use an under-tank heater you should monitor temperature in the substrate as well.

Humidity

Corn snakes are native to the humid environments of the southeastern United States. While they don’t require the very high humidity of a tropical species, you need to make sure that their cage doesn’t become too dry. An ambient humidity of 50-70% is ideal for these species, but they can easily tolerate short periods outside of this range.

Any of the best corn snake substrates that I described above will help maintain the humidity if you spray down the substrate once per day. If you live in a very dry environment then spraying twice per day might be necessary. I recommend keeping a humidity meter on the cool side of the enclosure to make sure levels stay in the healthy range of 50 percent or more.

Food and Water

Corn snakes are very simple to feed. They need only a diet of rodents, and they readily eat pre-killed (frozen/thawed) mice. The size of the prey should be about equal to the width of your snake’s body at its widest point. This means pinky or fuzzy mice for young snakes and adult/large mice for adult snakes. Corn snakes only have to eat about once per week, and don’t worry if you miss a week from time to time because 2 weeks between meals is okay.

Corn snakes also need a water bowl for drinking. It does not have to be big enough for your snake to fully soak, but make sure to keep it filled and clean at all times.

Handling Corn Snakes

Corn Snakes are generally very docile and easy to handle. Hatchlings can sometimes be a bit nippy but usually outgrow this rather quickly. Your snake will become more calm and gentle with regular interaction, and most corn snakes seem to enjoy curling with their owners.

I recommend not trying to handle your snake just after it has eaten, as they might feel vulnerable and defensive with a full belly. Also, don’t try to handle them if it’s been a while since their last meal, as a very hungry snake can sometimes be more aggressive.

Even if your snake does bite, there’s no reason for alarm. Simply remain calm and avoid the urge to jerk violently away. Doing so can rip teeth and cause injury. Allow the snake to release on its own. You’ll be left with rows of tiny teeth marks and a little blood, but nothing serious. After cleaning the wound and giving yourself and your snake a little time to calm down, you can try handling again to get them more accustomed to you.

Breeding Corn Snakes

Corn snakes are relatively easy to breed in captivity, and that’s why we now have so many fantastic color morphs on the market. Breeding corn snakes can be a very rewarding endeavor and perhaps a way to make some money from your reptile hobby. As more and more people discover the allure of corn snakes, they are likely to remain popular on the market. There are some special considerations involved in breeding these snakes, like the need to let them brumate over the winter. Read more about breeding in our separate article How to Breed Corn Snakes in Captivity and decide if this something you want to try for yourself.