Ball Python Care Guide

Ball pythons, as they are known in USA—or royal pythons as they are commonly known elsewhere—are some of the most popular snakes in the pet trade. They are loved for their small size compared to other pythons, relative ease of care, and personable nature. These pythons are typically docile and shy, but they can grow accustomed to their owners and seem to enjoy being handled occasionally. They also breed readily in captivity and come in a dazzling array of color morphs, from solid white to rainbow-striped. Given the right enclosure, diet, and health considerations, ball pythons can live for many years and make a rewarding pet for reptile keepers of all ages and experience.

Fast Facts

• Scientific name: Python regius
• Native range: Central and western Africa
• Natural habitat: Tropical forest and subtropical savannah
• Adult size: 3-5 feet
• Tank size: 40-gallon long
• Lifespan: 20-30 years

Source: Python regius on Animal Diversity Web

Fun Facts

• In the United States, these snakes are known as ball pythons because of their tendency to curl up in a tight ball with their head tucked at the center when they feel threatened.
• In the United Kingdom, these snakes are known as royal pythons because they are revered by the Igbo people of Nigeria, and rumor has it that in some cultures, rulers would wear live snakes around their necks as a status symbol.

Ball Pythons in the Wild

Ball pythons, AKA royal pythons (Python regius) are native to West and Central Africa, typically inhabiting savannahs, grasslands, and forests. They are solitary animals and spend much of their time hiding under rocks, in burrows, or other small spaces to avoid predators or the heat of the day. They sometimes climb into trees while on the move at night, but are primarily a ground-dwelling species.

Although these snakes are nocturnal and quite secretive in the wild, in captivity they can become accustomed to their keepers and are known to be quite sociable. When they feel threatened, however, they may exhibit their characteristic behavior of winding up into a tight ball for protection.

Ball Python Captive Care

Ball pythons can be found in almost any exotic pet shop in the US, UK, and many other places as well. This is because they make such great pets, and many people begin their reptile keeping hobby with a royal python as their very first snake. Although they are easier to care for than many other kinds of snakes, they still have some particular requirements. They are also known to be picky eaters sometimes, but following all the proper instructions for care will ensure a happy and healthy snake.

Housing

Some sources claim that ball pythons do best in tiny enclosures, but this is not true! For best health and mental stimulation, a python needs room to roam about. Cozy hide boxes within the cage are necessary, however, for the snake to retreat into and feel secure when it wants to.

A juvenile ball python can be kept in a standard 20-gallon long tank, but as it grows beyond 3 years of age, a bigger enclosure will be necessary. An adult ball python can be more than 4 feet long, so a 20 gallon tank will become quite cramped. A 40-gallon terrarium or larger is best. This ensures enough room for an adult snake to move around comfortably and maintain proper thermoregulation. The enclosure should be well-ventilated and secure with a lid that locks, because ball pythons are notorious escape artists.

The substrate can be aspen shavings, newspaper, reptile carpet, or sterilized terrarium soil. Your snake should have at least two enclosed hiding places, one on the warm side and one on the cool side of the cage for the purpose of thermoregulation. In addition, make sure to provide a water dish that you change regularly, and a few pieces of decoration that you can enjoy looking at and your snake can enjoy crawling on. These can be pieces of driftwood, rocks, or artificial plants.

Recommended enclosures for ball pythons:

• 20 gallon (suitable for young snakes)
• 40 gallon
• 60 gallon?

Can you keep more than one ball python together?

Keeping more than one ball python together is not recommended, as these snakes are naturally solitary animals. They will likely become stressed and stop eating if housed with another individual, and in rare cases the snakes may even attack each other.

If you do attempt to keep two snakes together, you will need a very large enclosure (120 gallons or more) with adequate room, furnishings, and hiding areas for both snakes to hide and thermoregulate independently. You must monitor the snakes closely and have a backup enclosure available in case they need to be separated.

Temperature & Humidity

The enclosure should have a thermal gradient, meaning on side is warmer than the other so your snake can move back and forth to control its body temperature. This can be accomplished with a heat lamp or a ceramic heater in addition to a lamp over one side of the cage.

The ideal temperature range for captive ball pythons is 86-90°F (30-32°C) on the warm side and 72-80°F (22-27°C) on the cool side during the day and 70-78°F (21-26°C) in the enclosure at night. If your house does not stay this warm, you may want to use an under-tank heating pad to boost the temperature in your snake’s cage. Whether heating by lamp, heat pad, or both, use a thermometer to ensure accuracy and prevent any surface from getting hot enough to burn your snake.

The humidity requirements for ball pythons are equally important as the temperature requirements. Humidity should be 60-80% to mimic the tropical environment where they are native. If the humidity level drops below this range, it can cause respiratory problems, dehydration, and difficulty shedding. A simple hygrometer can be used to monitor humidity levels inside the enclosure.

Recommended equipment for temperature and humidity:

• Heater (if heat lamp alone does not provide enough heat)
• Under-tank heater
• Thermometer
• Hygrometer

Lighting

Ball pythons should have a UVB lamp for best health, along with a day-night cycle that mimics natural daylight. Use an automatic timer to provide 10-12 hours of daylight each day, and monitor the temperature with a thermometer to ensure conditions do not become too hot or too cold anywhere in the tank.

Recommended lighting equipment:

• UVB heat lamp
• Nighttime heat lamp (if your house gets chilly at night)

Diet

The best food for ball pythons are pre-killed mice or rats, depending on the snake’s size. The prey should never be larger than the widest part of the snake’s body. When feeding your ball python, it’s important to use frozen-thawed prey items rather than live prey. Live prey can be dangerous for the snake and may injure them during feeding.

The frequency of feeding will depend on the age and size of the snake. Juvenile ball pythons may need to be fed every 5-7 days, while adults may only need to be fed every 7-14 days. 

Most ball pythons do quite well in captivity and will accept food readily when offered, however, these snakes are known to sometimes become picky eaters. It is not uncommon for ball pythons to go through periods of fasting or to refuse food altogether, especially during seasonal changes or when they are stressed by a change in their environment or routine.

What if my ball python refuses to eat?

There are several reasons why a ball python may refuse to eat, including stress, inadequate temperature or humidity, illness, and even simply not liking the type of prey offered. If your snake begins refusing food, you should re-examine all conditions in its environment to make sure its needs are adequately met.

Handling

Ball pythons are generally very tolerant of handling and some even seem to enjoy time coiled in the hands or clothes of their keeper. However, each snake is different so it’s important to handle your snake with caution and let it gently become accustomed to you with time. Here are some important tips for safe handling:

• Wash your hands before and after handling the snake. This will help prevent the spread of bacteria and reduce the risk of infection.
• Approach the snake calmly and slowly. Ball pythons can become nervous or defensive if they feel threatened or startled.
• Support the snake’s weight. Gently scoop the snake up with both hands, supporting its entire body, including its head and tail.
• Be aware of the snake’s body language. If the snake is hissing, coiling tightly, or flattening its head, it may be feeling threatened and you should back away.
• Avoid handling the snake during shedding or when it has just eaten. Handling during these times can cause stress and discomfort.
• Limit handling sessions to 10-15 minutes at a time with a new snake. Overhandling can cause stress and can lead to health problems. Over time, you can gradually keep the snake out for longer periods.